Frankincense, Myrrh & Benzoin – Resins in perfumery

By Marie-Sophie Schaupp — Co-founder of Maison Diaphane

Resins are among the most powerful ingredients in perfumery: frankincense, myrrh, and benzoin don't just "make" a fragrance, they establish a presence. These are materials that speak of depth, warmth, silence, sometimes even the sacred. They don't seek the immediate sparkle of citrus or the direct allure of a floral. They build something else: an atmosphere, a density, an inner hold.

In the world of perfume, resins are often invisible at first glance. And yet, they are essential. They act as an olfactory framework, supporting the entire composition without ever imposing themselves abruptly. They bind notes together, add dimension, and above all: they extend. It is thanks to them that a perfume "lasts," not only in duration but also in sensation. They provide that feeling of a settled, almost meditative trail, like an imprint left on the skin rather than a display. It is precisely this mystery, this assumed slowness, that makes resinous perfumes so fascinating... and often so addictive.

Frankincense: verticality, light, and silence

Frankincense, first of all, is never a single scent. It changes depending on its origin, extraction, dosage, and especially the materials surrounding it. It can be clear, almost mineral, evoking cold stone and dry air. It can also become dark, smoky, enveloping, recalling the warmth of an enclosed space, the slow combustion of an ancient resin. Frankincense often speaks of verticality: something that rises, that structures the space around oneself.

In Sancti – Liquides Imaginaires, frankincense is never spectacular. It becomes a line of force, almost silent, that runs through the perfume from beginning to end. Frankincense supports the composition, gives it elevation, a hold, without ever overpowering the other notes — an ingredient that structures the perfume over time, like a thread stretched between the first breath and the last hours on the skin.

Myrrh: density, material, and ritual

Myrrh, on the other hand, tells a different story. More earthy, denser, sometimes slightly bitter, it possesses a very peculiar balsamic facet, almost tactile. It evokes ancient balms, heated materials, resins that were once ground for their protective virtues. Myrrh gives the perfume a thickness, a sensation of depth close to the skin, less airy than frankincense, but often more enveloping.

In Wazamba – Parfum d'Empire, myrrh takes on an almost ritual dimension. It blends with woods, smokes, dry notes, in a composition that evokes passage, threshold, chiaroscuro. The perfume advances in successive layers, like a landscape slowly unfolding — a perfume of inner movement, more than outward affirmation.

Benzoin: warmth, balm, and longevity

Benzoin, finally, brings another facet of the resin world. More rounded, more balsamic, it is known for its vanilla, amber, sometimes slightly caramelized accents. Contrary to popular belief, benzoin is not sweet: it is warm. It gives the perfume a comfortable base, a sensation of warmed, almost velvety skin. In perfumery, it is often used to anchor a composition, to give it a reassuring foundation, a continuity.

In Mortel – Trudon, this resinous spirit becomes incandescent. Frankincense and resins respond to each other, intensify, and become charged with an almost carnal energy. The perfume never disperses: it remains concentrated, vibrant, tense. Mortel holds like an ember, slowly, with a perfectly controlled dark elegance.

Why resins are central in niche perfumery

What makes resins so essential in niche perfumery is also their relationship with time. Resinous perfumes never fully reveal themselves at first glance. They demand patience. They settle, transform, and deepen over hours. On the skin, they often become more beautiful with time, more blended, more personal.

This is exactly what demanding perfume lovers seek: a living, evolving fragrance that doesn't settle for an immediate effect but tells a lasting story.

If the subject of raw materials intrigues you, our notebook on musk, ambergris, and civet explores the same question from the animal accords side, and our series on olfactory families covers other major ingredients in niche perfumery.

At Maison Diaphane, we believe that each perfume is an encounter. That's why we carefully select rare, independent houses that carry meaning and emotion. Whether you are looking for your olfactory signature or curious to discover new creations, our team will accompany you with passion, in our boutique in Angers or through our online selection.

To go further...

• Sancti – Liquides Imaginaires
• Wazamba – Parfum d'Empire
• Mortel – Trudon